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The Kolkata-born chef says he won't raise his prices and doesn't want his molecular food to be classed as fine dining
CNN
—
It sounds too good to be true.
A celebrated chef, whose progressive Indian restaurant has been named Asia’s best two years running, denounces fine dining and pledges to keep his food affordable.
“With my rankings, awards and the fame … I could raise the prices to double and still I would be sold out every night with the same food. Exactly the same food,” he tells Talk Asia.
“But we won’t do that because we want everyone to come here – not just a certain class [of person].”
Humble pie
Gaggan opened his eponymous restaurant in the Thai capital in 2010, with a mission and vision to “reinvigorate” Indian cuisine by exploiting contemporary techniques and adding molecular twists to traditional Indian dishes.
Although molecular gastronomy and fine dining usually go hand in hand, chef Gaggan, 35, wants to move away from the elite image associated with both genres.
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Asia's 50 best restaurants have been revealed in a prize ceremony in Bangkok. Rounding out the top 10 is Hong Kong's most revered Cantonese restaurant. Lung King Heen is helmed by Chan Yan Tak, the first Chinese chef to earn three Michelin stars, and it's celebrated for valuing texture as much as flavor.
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9. Indian Accent (New Delhi) —
Chef Manish Mehrotra is the man behind New Delhi's Indian Accent, which broke into the top 10 this year. Standout dishes include the meetha achaar Canadian spare ribs, sun dried mango, and toasted kalonji seeds.
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8. Nahm (Bangkok) —
Nahm won the top prize in 2014 and this year Australian chef David Thompson, who is also behind the Long Chim restaurant in Singapore, picked up the Lifetime Achievement Award.
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7. Ultraviolet (Shanghai) —
Chef-patron Paul Pairet's Ultraviolet serves a 20-course menu of "experimental comfort food" in a secret location, purpose-built space in Shanghai.
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6. Waku Ghin (Singapore) —
Japanese legend Wakuda Tetsuya offers breathtaking cuisine featuring the finest produce in an intimate 25-table setting.
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5. Nihonryori RyuGin (Tokyo) —
Chef Seiji Yamamoto's Nihonryori RyuGin delivers a philosophical journey through kaiseki cuisine showcasing Japan's seasons and cooking heritage.
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4. Amber (Hong Kong) —
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Chef Yoshihiro Narisawa spent eight years training in Europe before opening Narisawa, where he delivers French cuisine featuring Japanese ingredients.
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1. Gaggan (Bangkok) —
Gaggan attempts to revolutionize the concept of Indian cuisine. It's helmed by mercurial young chef Gaggan Anand.
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“My restaurant is open 365 days a year and we are at a very easily accessible price point. For ‘fine dining’, I think we are one of the cheapest in the world,” says the Kolkata-born chef, who studied at elBulli, in Spain, before opening his own restaurant.
The unpretentious restaurateur says that Gaggan doesn’t have a PR department, because he doesn’t believe in it.
For Gaggan, all good things have to end – even his restaurant.
“Nothing goes on more than 10 years,” he says. “I don’t think I’ll be able to cook this for 20 years. That’s what I learned from elBulli – they closed at their peak.
“We’ve done five years … I will run the horse for 10 years, then I will stop.”