CNN  — 

In search of distinctive Russian faces, the biggest names in fashion have started turning to one modeling agency in particular – Lumpen. Less than two years after launching, the Moscow-based company has already cast models in major fashion shows for the likes of Vetements, Lanvin and Comme des Gar?ons.

But Lumpen’s rapidly growing influence stands in contrast to its name. The word “lumpenproletariat” was first used by Karl Marx to describe a low-achieving underclass that was useless to the revolutionary struggle – including criminals, vagabonds and other outcasts. But the agency’s founder, Avdotja Alexandrova, has embraced the term’s historical connotations.

“I really related to the word, and warmed to it even more as I began to discover its origins,” she said during an interview in Moscow.

Lumpen’s model database is comprised of “exclusive Russian faces from all over the world,” according to its website. But the agency employs a seemingly broad definition of Russianness.

“We treat the word ‘Russian’ differently at Lumpen,” Alexandrova said. “Most people in our agency are connected to Russia somehow. It could be that their mother was Russian, or they may have been born in Russia. They all, somehow, have a Russian background. But (they) aren’t necessarily ethnically Russian.”

Meet Swan, one of the many models featured on the books of Russian modeling agency Lumpen.
Meet the models —
Meet Swan, one of the many models featured on the books of Russian modeling agency Lumpen.
Courtesy Lumpen
Lumpen are in search of distinctive Russian faces, and the biggest names in fashion have started turning to them for their casting prowess.
Meet the models —
Lumpen are in search of distinctive Russian faces, and the biggest names in fashion have started turning to them for their casting prowess.
Courtesy Lumpen
Tsar (pictured) is one of the hundreds of models on the agency's books.
Meet the models —
Tsar (pictured) is one of the hundreds of models on the agency's books.
Courtesy Lumpen
Lumpen founder Avdotja Alexandrova (pictured) originally started the agency as a database for photographers and directors to pull interesting faces from.
Meet the models —
Lumpen founder Avdotja Alexandrova (pictured) originally started the agency as a database for photographers and directors to pull interesting faces from.
Courtesy Lumpen
The agency seems to have a penchant for unforgettable faces. Like Sever pictured who has modeled for the likes of Nike and Comme des Garcons.
Meet the models —
The agency seems to have a penchant for unforgettable faces. Like Sever pictured who has modeled for the likes of Nike and Comme des Garcons.
Courtesy Lumpen
Lanvin, Kenzo, Nike and more have called on Lumpen for their eye at scouting unusual models.
Meet the models —
Lanvin, Kenzo, Nike and more have called on Lumpen for their eye at scouting unusual models.
Courtesy Lumpen
Cult brands Vetements and Gosha Rubchinskiy have similarly enlisted Lumpen's services.
Meet the models —
Cult brands Vetements and Gosha Rubchinskiy have similarly enlisted Lumpen's services.
Courtesy Lumpen
"Ultimately, if we like the face, then you're in, regardless of your background," said Alexandrova.
Meet the models —
"Ultimately, if we like the face, then you're in, regardless of your background," said Alexandrova.
Courtesy Lumpen
Most people at the Moscow-based agency are connected with Russia somehow.
Meet the models —
Most people at the Moscow-based agency are connected with Russia somehow.
Courtesy Lumpen
The Russian agency changing the faces in fashion

This approach to diversity may see Lumpen avoid the criticisms levied against some of its clients. Two brands that the agency has worked with, Vetements and Balenciaga, have recently come under fire for their casting choices (the latter’s Fall-Winter ’16 show featured no black models). But Alexandrova claims that race doesn’t come into the question when scouting and casting for Lumpen.

“Skin color doesn’t matter,” she said. “We have some half-African guys; we have European-type looks. Ethnicity is not the point.”

A different model

The agency seems to have a penchant for unforgettable faces. Of the 12 men that walked in Comme des Gar?ons’ Autumn-Winter 2017 Homme Plus show, eight were provided by Lumpen.

Elsewhere, French brands Jil Sander and Lanvin have enlisted Alexandrova’s eye for scouting, while big names like Kenzo and Nike have gone to the agency for both male and female models.

But Lumpen didn’t start as a modelling agency. Instead, it began as a database to help Alexandrova and her director and photographer friends find unusual looking faces. As a result, it appears to operate differently from others in the industry.

Lumpen did not begin as a modelling agency and instead was started as a database of interesting faces for photographers and directors to cast from.
Lumpen did not begin as a modelling agency and instead was started as a database of interesting faces for photographers and directors to cast from.
Courtesy Lumpen

To begin with, Lumpen charges a mere 20 percent of its models’ fees, compared with the 50 percent cut taken by some top agencies. The company also says that it gives people equal casting opportunities rather than dividing its roster into high and low earners.

Perhaps the most unusual aspect of the Lumpen’s operation is that its models have a story to tell, Alexandrova posits.

“Everybody in the agency is from the suburbs or the provinces, and has gone through something in life – usually something that is emotionally straining,” she said. “Maybe they were street-raised, or maybe they have done time in prison. (But) ultimately, if we like the face then you’re in, regardless of your background.”